Margiela’s show this season drew inspiration from intellectual movements, reimagining the styles associated with the Beat Generation and modernizing them. The collection serves as an interesting break from the brand’s minimalist associations (though Margiela’s association with minimalism has always been slightly off-the-mark).
Frayed and unfinished details create a sense that Margiela’s aesthetic is straying away from the glamorous and tidy maximalist designs that we’ve been seeing everywhere in fashion ever since the influence of Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has been shifting the industry towards such styles.
It wouldn’t be a Margiela show without an element of deconstruction. A pair of loafers made from the patches of different coloured leather give the impression that it embodies multiple pairs of shoes at once. Perhaps this is a statement about our indecisiveness when it comes to what we wear? Or perhaps it refers to the temporality of trends, how different colours can come and go in and out of style but the style of shoe remains relatively static.
While there were some loud patterns and looks in this showing, many still had very wearable and effortless items. Many of the boots and jackets on display could easily fit into any men’s wardrobe.